Ireland Road Trip | County Wexford to County Kilkenny
We continued our journey in County Wexford a little further south in the seaside town of Kilmore Quay and stopped in at The Silver Fox. The fresh seafood chowder and catch of the day were amazing, and the Irish once again showed their kindness by giving us information on the best routes to take and sites to see.
We continued our journey in County Wexford a little further south in the seaside town of Kilmore Quay and stopped in at The Silver Fox. The fresh seafood chowder and catch of the day were amazing, and the Irish once again showed their kindness by giving us information on the best routes to take and sites to see.
Before leaving County Wexford we made a stop in the town of New Ross to tour a replica of the Dunbrody Famine Ship. The original Dunbrody launched in 1845, the year the potato famine struck Ireland. As more than a million people fled the country, there were not enough passenger ships so cargo vessels like the Dunbrody were fitted with bunks to meet the extra demand. However, lax regulations allowed ships this size to carry passengers in horrible conditions. Only an elite few were able to pay the price for cabin passengers so most were in the steerage section below decks. The average farm labourer at the time made only about £1 per month so even the steerage fair of £3 – £4 was beyond the reach of many. The steerage passengers mostly had to fend for themselves. Going down into the ship and hearing the stories about how 200-300 people would live below deck for 6-8 weeks to make the trek to America was an eye opening experience. They lived in total darkness with only a few rations enduring sickness, rats, and filth. They were only allowed onto the upper deck for one hour each day. The Dunbrody carried thousands of emigrants to North America between 1845 and 1851. Unfortunately, many did not survive the journey.
Seeing names of possible ancestors listed in the archives intrigues us to dig more into our own family history. If you have Irish ancestry you might want to check out the site www.rootsireland.ie.
Dunbrody Famine Ship
As slow our ship her foamy track
Against the wind was cleaving,
Her trembling pennant still look’d back
To that dear Isle ‘twas leaving.
So loath we part from all we love,
From all the links that bind us;
So turn our hearts as on we rove,
To those we’ve left behind us.
~Thomas Moore
This kitchen was used to cook only for the few upper class “cabin” passengers as well as the crew. Most passengers were in the lower class “steerage” section with horrible conditions and cooking with their limited supplies during the one hour per day above deck.
A friend had suggested stay in manor homes while touring Island so we did some online searching and found Mount Juliet Country Estate was along our route in Thomastown, County Kilkenny. The three days we spent at this stunning estate on 1500 acres were wonderful. We could hear the birds singing in the garden right outside our room. While staying there we picked Ireland’s Blue Book which is a great resource for Irish Country houses and historic hotels. They’re a little pricier than hotels and B&B’s, but well worth the extra cost even if you only add a couple into your itinerary along the way. It’s easy to book online, but be sure to look at the specials available. There are some great deals for 2-3 day stays with amazing breakfasts and dinners included.
In addition to the luxury accommodations and delicious meals, this particular estate offered a luxury spa, river and lake fishing, an equestrian centre with guided trails and lessons, woodland walks, bike rides, as well as a Jack Nicklaus designed golf course. The par 72 course, which opened in 1991, is considered one of Ireland’s best. It hosted the 2002 and 2004 WGC-American Express Championship, and the European Tour’s Irish Open on three occasions.
We spent an entire day just relaxing, walking the trails through the immaculate grounds and gardens, talking to the horses, and enjoying a little down time in a beautiful location. With extended travel, you really need to factor in a few days to just stay in one place and regroup. Actually any time you travel, I think it’s a great idea to remember to slow down and “smell the roses” along the way.
Mount Juliet is only 20 minutes from the Medieval town of Kilkenny, making it a perfect day trip during our stay. A highlight in the city is Kilkenny Castle, originally built by William Marshal, 4th Earl of Pembroke during the first decade of the 13th century.
One of my favorite parts of the day was climbing to the top of the round tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral. It is the oldest standing structure in Kilkenny City and one of only two Round Towers that people can climb in Ireland.
The trip up the ladder-like stairs got tighter and steeper the higher we climbed. Somehow I don’t think it would have passed safety regulations in the states.
View from the top of the tower – the approaching storm made for an awesome sky.
The site of St. Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower has been a place of Christian worship since the 6th century. The round tower was built in the 9th century and the Cathedral was erected in the 13th century. The Gothic structure, full of interesting history, has been a place of worship for over 800 years.
The Kyteler Slab was found in 1894 outside the house of a famous Kilkenny witch – Dame Alice Kyteler. She was a wealthy, well educated woman who was married four times. With each dying husband suspicion grew as her wealth and status were improved. Eventually she became the earliest person condemned of witchcraft in Ireland. She escaped to England, but her maid was burnt to death.
It was a fun day, but enough “touristy stops” for a while. Great to be able to head to our comfy room at Mount Juliet for a delicious evening meal and bottle of wine before getting back on the road tomorrow.
