Ecuador Road Trip | El Angel Ecological Reserve

Feb 15

After another huge breakfast (I’ve eaten so much here!) we continued north through the Ibarra valley with beautiful views of the subtropical landscapes of the rich Imbabura province. Just before crossing into the Carchi province we drove through the Chota valley.

I’m fortunate that my guide David is very knowledgeable about his country and shares history and facts along the way – He explained that the majority of the population in El Chota is black and of African descent. Most were brought here as slaves during the colonial period, particularly to work on the great sugar estates. Most of the Spanish-speaking black villagers who live here today make their living from growing sugar cane.

Sugar seems to be a staple in the diet all over Ecuador. It’s hard to pass up because it tastes so good – I even put it in my coffee the other day – something I never do!

Harvesting sugar cane in the Chota valley

After crossing into Carchi, the northernmost province of the Ecuadorian sierra, we made a stop to take a short hike to view the Voladero Lakes. The frailejón flowers, pictured below, are a native plant of the Andes Highlands. This plant has adapted to high altitude and cold temperatures. It has thick, fleshy leaves that are covered in a kind of fur that retains moisture, reflects hot sunlight during the day, and insulates from the cold nights.

The drive from there to the Polylepis Lodge in the El Angel Ecological Reserve, where we would spend the night, was crazy. It was raining, the dirt/rock roads were not good, we took a couple of wrong turns, and I just tried not to look at the long drops on the side of the narrow road as we bumped our way up and up through the mud.

Thankful for 4-wheel drive – I don’t think we could have made the drive otherwise.

The Polylepis Lodge in the 15,700 hectare reserve of El Ángel is named for the local Polylepis tree, known as ‘paper trees’ for their thin, peeling bark. The reserve protects the rare polylepis forest that dates back to about 2 million years.

Arrival at the Polylepis Lodge – greeted by a resident llama

Staying at the lodge was a unique, fun, and very cold, experience.

My hut at the lodge – a cozy space with a wood burning fire, heavy blankets and fleece sheets.

As cold as it was outside, the hot shower was amazing!

I used every bit of wood left for me to keep this fire going all night long.

The dining hall. We were served some delicious meals here. There is a little stream that runs from the back window, under the floor and you can see the trout through the windows in the floor.

The waterfalls running next to my hut made for peaceful sleeping at night.

After a great dinner and good nights sleep, we bundled up for our hike through the forest. I was layered with yoga pants under my hiking pants and pulled out my winter coat and gloves for the first time since leaving St. Louis. Pedro, our native guide from the Polylepis Lodge, first fitted us with gum boots and then started leading the way through the magical forest of polylepis trees, streams, lagoons, swamps and waterfalls.

There are a variety of medicinal plants marked along the way – traditional/natural health remedies really interests me – I’d love to have a garden full of natural herbs someday.

A Polylepis tree at laguna de los deseos (lagoon of desires) – a wishing lagoon.

The magic of this special forest was enhanced by the stories our guide Pedro shared along the way. I wish I could remember the legend of these intwined trees. Something about a girl and a leprechaun, but I can’t remember all the details. Does anyone know the story?

The lodge where our hike started through the forest.

Pestaña was with us every step of the way – loved that dog!

The 3 hour hike was tough, but exhilarating! We returned to the lodge for a delicious meal before getting back in the jeep and heading further north to Tulcan and the border of Colombia.