Chiang Mai | Thailand
Chiang Mai city was a little more hectic than expected, but the people were so lovely it really was a great place to spend some time. We arrived at a perfect time of year – just after the monsoons and before the extreme heat of summer. The temperature was a beautiful 22 Celcius (71.6 fahrenheit) the beginning of February and already has climbed to over 100 degree temperatures by the first of March.
The city, in the north of Thailand, is surrounded by mountains with an old city section once enclosed by stone walls and a moat. The walls, built over 700 years ago, still stand in places, adding to its mystique and history. The culture, arts, festivals, food, and traditions are an eclectic mix of ethnic groups.
Along with the charm of the old city, there is a sense of the modern. I was able to get my teeth cleaned by a UCLA trained dentist in a wonderful facility for a fraction of the cost back home. From there you can walk a few blocks to this old iron bridge across the Ping River.
There is no lack of places to shop in Chiang Mai. There are boutiques and markets everywhere selling handicrafts, silver, textiles, woodcarvings, and amazing food. Over a three week period we hit just about every market around at some point.
Anusarn Market – near the bottom end of the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar on Chang Khlan Road. The night bazaar and market are open from early evening until midnight, every night of the week.
Sunday Night Market Walking Street starting at Tha Pae Gate
The markets really were a lot of fun. They had a great vibe, shopping, food, and entertainment all wrapped into one. People were kind and friendly and the atmosphere was safe and family oriented.
Blind musicians in their regular spot at the Sunday Night Market Walking Street
Wororos Market (Kad Luang Market) is a huge indoor and outdoor market located along the west side of Ping River. You can find everything from fabrics, clothes, herbs, spices and cooked foods at great prices.
Hot Chili Peppers – Wororos Market (Kad Luang Market)
Wororos Market (Kad Luang Market)
The street food at all of these markets was amazing – cheap and delicious! Unfortunately we had already eaten a great dinner before going to the Saturday Night Market Walking Street on Wua Lai Road. This was a huge mistake as this market had what seemed to be miles of carts full of yummy food. If you go to this market – go hungry!
Actually the food everywhere in Chiang Mai City was wonderful. There are a wide variety of restaurants serving anything from Thai food to Japanese, Italian, French and German cuisines. Our two favorite restaurants actually ended up being in the same small square called Kad Klang Wiang on Ratchadamnern Road. It’s a park like setting in the center of the old city and was one of our favorite hangouts.
The Red Hot Chilli Restaurant was a fun place to check out for the decor, and the meals we had there were very good. The work that went into the decorated squash container for my curry soup was amazing.
This was also the first place we tried what turned out to be one of our favorite deserts in Thailand – Mango Sticky Rice.
Located in the same small square was Beetroot Stories. We had the best fresh juices, coconut milk shakes and veggie stir fries here – all from locally grown, organic farms.
From fresh fruit shakes, to hot and spicy – we enjoyed all kinds of food. One other favorite vendor we walked past every evening on the way back to the hotel was the best Rotee in Chiang Mai!. It’s a made to order stuffed pancake/crepe – we usually had egg, banana & chocolate. There were other stands, but this was by far the best. Khun Abdulla and his wife Khun Paday have been setting up every evening since 1976 and have been in this same spot outside Wat Mahawan for most of those years. It was melt in your mouth delicious!
Just when we thought we had seen every market possible, the arrival of Chinese New Year took us down another side street, into the heart of Chiang Mai’s Chinatown and another street full of festivities.
One of the best stands at this festival was the one making Dragon Beard Candy. Not because of the sweet treat of honey & cornstarch, but because they were so entertaining! Click here to see the video.
We walked a lot every day in Chiang Mai, which was a good thing considering the amount of food we were eating. But, some trips called for other transportation. It was always easy to find a Tuk Tuk, but we learned the cheapest way was to hop on one of these red trucks.
The first place we stayed was just outside Chiang Mai City in a condo we found through Airbnb. This is a great website to find a homelike setting for extended stays at much cheaper rates than hotels. The entire condo only cost us $795 for the month. Here’s a link to a $50 credit for your first stay with Airbnb. We also stayed a few days at two separate hotels within the city limits of Chiang Mai and would highly recommend both.
We had a beautiful poolside room at Rarinjinda. The hotel and staff were wonderful.
Shewe Wana was an oasis of beauty right in the city. The staff was incredible, the room was beautiful and comfortable, and check out this balcony. If you get a chance to stay, look online for specials – they have some great deals for 3 night stays including breakfast, dinner, and a spa treatment. They also were kind enough to store our excess luggage when we made our visa run to Myanmar for a few days.
There are temples everywhere in Thailand. One of the most impressive in the Chiang Mai area was Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. It’s high on a mountain with a beautiful view of the city below. According to legend, a holy relic brought to Chiang Mai in 1371 was placed on the back of an elephant to decide where it should be enshrined. The elephant climbed the mountain and died in the place where the relic was then buried and the temple grounds were established.
After a beautiful, windy drive up the mountain, you have to climb some two hundred steps up the stairway to the temple grounds.
The wood carvings, marble floors, and view of the city below are amazing at Doi Suthep
The contrast of old, new, modern and traditional was one of the most interesting parts of Chiang Mai.
Fishing in the Ping River that flows right through the city.
A common site – how do they follow the trail if there’s a problem?
Sometimes things get a little lost in translation. I think she probably meant relieve (not relive) colds and decreases (not increases) appetite. No matter, this lady’s tea tasted great and really did settle well on the stomach.
One of the best parts of traveling is the wonderful people you meet along the way. If you ever make it to Chiang Mai, be sure to stop in and meet John in his unique shop, John Gallery at 330 Thae Pae Road. He’s a self taught painter with a shop packed full of over 10000 paintings, many including great quotes and meaningful sayings.
Shop owner John, with Bill. What a pleasure to meet this remarkable man.
Chiang Mai has a wonderful vibe. The city is busier than we had expected, but the kind people give it a sense of charm and calm that’s hard to describe. It truly is a land of smiles.
